Like many of Japan’s onsen, local legend and lore surrounds the birthplace & discovery of Nagato Yumoto hot spring source, Onto. It is said that in the historical records of nearby Taineiji Temple, the sea god Sumiyoshi Daimyojin presented himself to the high priest of the temple, Joan Shuzen in the guise of an elderly man, foretelling him that a wondrous onsen source could be discovered south of Taineiji (8-chome south precisely) where one could relax and heal in it’s miraculous healing waters spilling from the rock’s natural surface. After the high priest discovered the source, thunder rang through the skies and Sumiyoshi Daimyojin vanished from the Earth in the form of a great dragon.
Another perhaps more realistic origin story is that during the Ouchi clan’s rule, Zen buddhism, specifically the Soto-shu (one of the largest traditional sects of Japanese Zen Buddhism), held powerful relationships with the local daimyo (Japanese feudal lord) and with the tradition of hot springs in multiple locations being used by temple monks to cleanse themselves, a great tale was told. Utilising the story of the sea god Sumiyoshi Daimyojin, it is said that the Ouchi clan, Taineiji Temple and Sumiyoshi Shrine created the legend for political use, which is a similar occurrence that happened with hot spring legends all over Japan.
Throughout the affluent years of Ouchi & Mori clan’s rule, and the subsequent Edo period, Nagato Yumoto Onsen flourished as a popular destination for feudal lords and their retinues to visit to soak in the precious onsen waters. The popularity continued both through the Meiji and Showa eras, as transportation and the means to travel improved, local travellers from all over Japan came to experience the hot springs.
The Heisei period saw the town enter a period of decline, as modern travel and lifestyles changed leading to a decrease in the number of overnight guests and hot spring users which culminated in the closing of the long established 150-year old Shirokiya Grand Hotel in 2014 and the shutting of the doors of Onto in 2017. Determined to revitalise the town and the community itself, significant steps were taken and in 2016 Hoshino Resorts took over the defunct Shirokiya Grand Hotel to launch Kai Nagato, whilst in 2020 Onto was revived by Mr. Kazuhiro Otani, the owner of Otozure and Otani Sanso with a new contemporary design yet preserving the ancient traditions for future generations.
Today, Nagato Yumoto Onsen is a beautiful blend of its rich history and traditions along with up and coming businesses next door to centuries old family run establishments, where one can enjoy a peaceful getaway walking along the river, enjoying the Kawadoko, meandering the iconic bamboo lined steps to Onto, appreciating the fragile beauty of the numerous Sakura in spring, tasting the delicious local cuisine and bathing in its relaxing onsen.
